Glenn Martens turned up the volume on utilitarian workwear for Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The Belgian designer, who has been at the helm of the Italian brand since 2020, explored the space where blue-collar practicality meets fashion fantasy, in a collection that was equal parts grounded and fantastical..
The show, held in Milan on Saturday, opened with a series of archetypal workwear pieces engineered for extreme weather conditions: quilted overalls, waterproof parkas, and protective goggles that wouldn’t look out of place in a high-altitude construction zone. But Martens quickly subverted these workmanlike garments, twisting and distorting them into surreal and exaggerated shapes..
A pair of overalls, for example, were blown up to cartoonish proportions, with extra fabric billowing out around the legs and arms. A parka was sliced and diced, its panels reassembled in an abstract, almost Cubist manner. And a pair of goggles were transformed into an outlandish ski mask, complete with protruding spikes..
This tension between the familiar and the strange was a common thread throughout the collection. Martens took classic Diesel pieces, such as the brand’s iconic denim jeans, and subjected them to a series of experimental treatments. Some jeans were distressed and faded, while others were covered in raw edges and mismatched patches. One pair was even transformed into a sculptural garment, with the fabric twisted and folded into an abstract shape..
Martens also played with proportion and scale, creating a sense of distorted reality. Oversized hoodies and shirts hung off the models’ bodies, while tiny shorts and skirts barely covered their hips. This sense of imbalance was further emphasized by the use of trompe l’oeil effects, such as a pair of jeans that appeared to be covered in mud..
The overall effect was a collection that was both playful and provocative. Martens challenged traditional notions of beauty and functionality, creating a world where workwear was transformed into fashion fantasy. It was a bold and ambitious statement from a designer who is not afraid to push boundaries..
Here are some of the key looks from the Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection:.
* A quilted overall in a bright orange hue, with exaggerated legs and arms..
* A parka with sliced and diced panels, reassembled in an abstract manner..
* A pair of goggles transformed into an outlandish ski mask, complete with protruding spikes..
* Distressed and faded denim jeans, with raw edges and mismatched patches..
* A sculptural garment made from twisted and folded denim fabric..
* Oversized hoodies and shirts, paired with tiny shorts and skirts..
* Trompe l’oeil effects, such as a pair of jeans that appeared to be covered in mud..
The Diesel Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection is a bold and ambitious statement from a designer who is not afraid to push boundaries. Martens’ exploration of the space where workwear meets fashion fantasy is sure to spark a conversation about the future of menswear..
