After a tour of the house, still in its original state, a photo session of guests in glitter shorts or western hats facing the brown and golden hills and an aperitif serving beer, the presentation of the AW24 Phipps collection could finally begin. The first models came out dressed in denim and western hats. The line-up included bare-chested cowboys of all genders and ages, often muscular and bearded with a rustic look about them, who looked as virile in skirts as they did in pants.
 
Phipps alternated the sexy shirtless cowboys, in western boots with a series of looks inspired by outwear and workwear, playing with leaf print camouflage and a ’90s throwback, where jackets and shirts were worn over long-sleeved T-shirts. For women, tartan plaid and camouflage prints were mixed in oversized hoodies paired with full military skirts, native american vests and visible bras. Tartan check was particulary present in the final looks with full check outfits or paired with jersey T-shirts.

“This is Phipps and this is American style,” adds Phipps. “This is the image and history of Phipps and this is what we do and what we do well. Also, being here in California, I now have access to better vintage sourcing. We’ve worked with a lot of upcycled vintage, reworked vintage, vintage denim and vintage leather from furniture pieces, and a lot of deadstock fabrics.” 
 
A year after returning to California, Spencer Phipps seems to have found the perfect breeding ground for his inspiration. “I’m so happy in Los Angeles. I feel all is restarting here,” says Phipps. “My personal life is so much nicer, my quality of life is better here. People really understand my language. It’s also a great moment from a branding perspective. I’m here in the US. It feels right. It feels like something has clicked from a business and marketing point of vie.”

Phipps collections are produced in Portugal, vintage pieces are sourced in the USA, and T-shirts and sweatshirts are made in California. His brand is sold in 25 stockists worldwide, in Europe at Voo Store in Berlin, in California at Departamento in Los Angeles, and is successful in Asia with Super A Market in Tokyo, Empty in Seoul and Le Monde de Shangai, in Shanghai.

Originally from San Francisco and a graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York, Phipps began his career alongside Marc Jacobs, for whom he worked for seven years, before moving to Antwerp where he was the first American designer to work for Dries Van Noten. Phipps unveiled his own brand in 2019, during Paris Fashion Week and finally returned to California in 2022.